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FutureStarrPhlox Near Meor
Turn a dull, lifeless garden into a lush landscape with phlox from Spring Hill Nurseries. These perennial plants are best known for their profuse, carpet-like blooming habit that makes them an excellent choice for a ground cover or dense border. Spires of majestic foliage are adorned with a plethora of star-shaped flowers that form an undulating blanket of colorful blooms when planted together with other phlox. Coming in a variety of solid or bicolor hues as well, these dazzling perennials can completely reshape a garden when used to fill in space or add contrast. Phlox are disease and drought resistant. Their fragrance will even attract pollinators, ensuring the vitality of your garden. Spring Hill's tried and true phlox varieties will make planting an ease, and they're delivered straight to your door.
Garden phlox or Summer phlox (Phlox paniculata) is the tallest phlox in cultivation and is probably the species that most folks have in their gardens. It grows in clumps that reach between 3 and 5 feet in height and produces panicles of flowers in mid- to late summer. Though tolerant of most lighting, it grows and flowers best in partial to full sun. It has a reputation for being very susceptible to powdery mildew, but resistant varieties are available.Hi purple-gal. Your Phlox was probably forced into bloom by artificial means. Nurseries and big box stores often do this to increase buying appeal. Plus it is in transplant shock. It needs to adjust to it's natural growing cycle and acclimate to its new location. Just keep the ground moist and add a little fertilizer late winter. Next spring you should get at least 6 weeks of straight blooms. In a couple years you could divide it to make multiple plants and make a display like mine.
Wanderbug - Yes, surprisingly little blackberry in general. The grass from front walk to junipers (love the VW comment!) is 10'. Your photos are handsome so will keep them in mind for the future. Suspect they will first be concentrating on creating a "lounging" space in the back and just try to get planting areas in front figured out for now. The new patio in backyard will be 20' by 27' approx., centering on the window in back which is kitchen eating area inside. Don't know they've given much thought to WHAT to do in design of it. They were able to include a new patio in their financing since the existing patio, after 50 years, was slightly sinking toward the house. The new patio will be a cement product...perhaps just laid in a large squares pattern. Such a large area has to have "segments"...don't know what that would be called...joints? Just enough pattern to keep it from cracking but not enough get into realm of "fancy" or expensive. What do people think? Plain brushed cement or aggregate? Not sure what the style is now when one is doing contemporary patios. I suggested down the road they could eventually do some rectangular, raised planters (could clad them in horizontal, stained slats), maybe incorporating some clean-lined benches (daughter-in-law has mentioned she likes that look) thus tying the back in with any privacy fencing they might put in near front door. Plants in pots will have to do for time being on new back patio. When we rent the trencher for the sprinkler system, we'll be laying in a French drain at the base of the ivy slope in back to help divert water from the house to the sides of the property. Any hints on constructing French drains? The drain pipes on the back of the house were missing! So once those get repaired and some additional drainage put in, I think the water won't be such an issue. The house is located right between a "moderate" to "low" earthquake hazard area so that's hopeful. I purposefully steered them away from houses built in what I call "jello" areas. We also suggested they run a pipe under the new patio as a holding space out toward the ivy slope in case they eventually want to have a gas BBQ or fireplace out there. The Douglas Firs begin immediately at the property line and fill the neighbors property of about 1/2 acre so the needles are definitely acidifying the soil. But, except in tight-squeeze suburbia where all trees have been removed to provide a blank slate, it's hard to get away from their effect here in NW, as you know. But it keeps the rhoddies, azaleas, etc. happy so you just have to amend for other items. Both front and back lawns have quite a bit of moss. Anyone know of a grass that does better in shade? We'll treat for the moss then thought we might over seed, adding a grass more shade tolerant...is there one? I know lawns are going out of style but for now and in the homeowners' stage of life, I think both expansive lawn areas are here to stay for a while. KatherineD - I've always torn out the blue violets that have sprouted in my yard...just seemed they had the potential to be such a nuisance. But now one has entered my yard that has a larger bloom and is more of a pink blossom...it looks like an actual plant rather than a weed with a tiny blossom. I can see how you like them - especially in that picture with the large drift of them. After the cement blocks to the side of the driveway and lava rock (ick!) at the bottom of the juniper bed get power-washed, I hope the creeping phlox (blue-ish lavender color) cascading over them will look good. Also thought some wooly thyme mixed in will add color at another time of the year. Thought we might come up with some dark red plants to mix in front juniper bed to tie lava rock in...maybe heuchera? Any thoughts of something low maintenance? Other than the blossoms that shoot up from huechera that eventually should be cut back, the foliage is low maintenance. (Source: www.houzz.com)