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Staplehouse heralds from the Merchant & Shaver days, when the old Fourth Ward was a little less glitzy and in everyone's dreams. Nowadays the name has been resurrected from chef Ryan Smith's half-hearted repurposing of his old Risotto in Atlanta. You can't get in for less than $100 for the prix-fixe tasting menu, but it's worth it.
Giving Kitchen selling Atlanta hotspot Staplehouse marks a massive change to the local restaurant scene. In fact, the award-winning Staplehouse, located at 541 Edgewood Ave. in the Old Fourth Ward, is evolving from the restaurant scene entirely. Currently, the Staplehouse website lists only one message: that they are closed as they adapt to their new function, a neighborhood market.
Staplehouse is a fine-dining experience as innovative as it is unfussy. That makes it Exhibit A in the argument that Atlanta is finally ready for the kind of cutting-edge restaurants that flourish in other cities: ambitious, purposeful, personality-driven food served in irreverently casual dining rooms instead of on white tablecloths. The eight to 10-course menu, which shifts a little from night to night and more dramatically from season to season, features delicate interludes of decadent proteins, from an early course of king crab mingled with Cara Cara orange, fennel, turnip, sunflower, and sorrel to a subsequent one of cobia poached to the consistency of butter, topped with delicate lettuces and accompanied by curls of crispy sunchoke. But most impressive is what the kitchen, helmed as of January by chef de cuisine Jake Pollitz, does with vegetables. Like executive chef Ryan Smith, Pollitz has deep respect for local growers, allowing him to reap the benefits of our bountiful farms while bucking our deep-fried stereotypes. A little more than a year ago, the restaurant, which opened in 2015, returned to its original tasting menu–only format ($105 for the regular menu, $75 for a four-course Sunday one). It’s the ideal way to experience Staplehouse’s creativity—and it makes Atlanta’s reputation as a serious food destination stronger, too. 541 Edgewood Avenue, 404-524-5005, staplehouse.com (Source: www.atlantamagazine.com)
The magnitude of the change stems from Staplehouse’s origins, and how quickly it became a buzzing fine dining destination, winning awards, including Bon Appetit’s best new restaurant of 2016, and making Smith a reluctant star.
It takes a bit of advance planning to score a resy at this spot once named best restaurant in the country. (Source: www.cntraveler.com)