Growing Grass in Woods

Growing Grass in Woods

Growing Grass in Woods

Grass requires some necessary elements for optimum growth and color. Although hundreds of varieties of grass exist, all types require adequate amounts of water, light and nutrients. Many varieties of grass require full sunlight and often suffer and die in shady areas. A few types flourish in areas that receive modest amounts of sunlight. Growing healthy lawns in wooded areas requires careful grass selection. Growing grass in shady areas also involves proper site preparation and planting techniques.


Add soil amendment if your soil is poor. If it is a rich, loamy soil, chances are you won't need to amend it. If the grass you are trying to grow is in a grove of pine trees, you will have to add soil amendments to fight the acidity in the soil that pine needles create. Potash is a good way to counteract the acid soils found in pine forests. You can save fireplace or wood stove ashes for a good source of potash. You will have to apply the potash regularly. (Source: www.gardenguides.com)

Yesterday I went to scrape together the bigger sticks and branches with a metal rake but ended up scraping up the first couple inches of composted leaves and plant life, exposing bare dirt underneath on a 6 x 40 section. That was a lot of work and I cannot do that by hand on the whole area. I then ran the drag behind aerator with my JD L120 over the whole woods, intending to pulverize and churn instead. However, my understanding is that I need bare dirt in order to get grass, and it's still not that way, and I just don't know how to get there from here. Our financial future is uncertain at best, so not only must our fix be affordable, but the grass seed itself for 22k square feet is going to be like $300 so we want a little more certainty before seeding, too.I did something similar to about an acre at my last house. Hired a back hoe to take out all the stunts and small trees and large debris. Then rented an aerator and ran it back and forth more than normal to break up the soil so the seed could take hold. If I were to do it again I would try to find a small set of disks to better break up the soil. Then normal seeding procedure and straw on top. When planting new grass it takes alot of seed and straw. I still had lots of weeds but overtime they were reduced as I used fertilizer and weed preventer. It was never as nice as a normal suburban home but for a rural space it was good. More of a natural lawn. I am sure of I kept at it with more over seeding and generous use of weed preventer and pulling of the growth the weed preventer didnt attack and it would have been even nicer.

Years ago I was at a spring event for landscapers that was put on by the Georgia department of Agriculture's Extension Program. Lots of smart people with good info. One of the attendees asked what type of lawn grass was best for planting in shade. The extension agent says "I'm glad you asked, I get this all the time. I always tell people that the best bet is to use plants that thrive naturally in those growing conditions. So if you go out in the deep woods and look down, what type of grass do you see?The best grass seed for wooded areas is the seed that will survive in your area. Some seeds are more tolerant to shade and moisture, while others may need a little extra care. The key is to know what type of climate you live in and what types of trees grow there. To find out which tree species grow in your area, go outside and look up! If it’s mostly evergreens or deciduous trees, then you’ll want to pick a seed that can handle those conditions. (Source: turfexplorer.com)


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